Showing newest 8 of 33 posts from February 2010. Show older posts
Showing newest 8 of 33 posts from February 2010. Show older posts

Sunday, 28 February 2010

Felder Felder


Just a quick mention to Felder Felder. I really enjoyed the way they teamed chunky chain adornments teamed with big frills which, I think, gave this collection a power dressing feel. Womanly but strong.


The industrial feel to the embellishments on this tailored jacket was counter balanced by the soft lines of the drape fabric. This mix of styles also reminded me of what I had seen at Sophie Hulme with her armour plated, oversize bow necklaces (see blog entry).



Knitted ruffel sleeve dress. Wow.

For more information


Hannah xx



Ahead Of The Trends: What I Saw LFW

Zips are definitely going to play a key part in design for Autumn/Winter '10. Although perhaps not as you might think.

Instead of being functional, decoration and adornment are now their sole purpose, or for this season at least!

Here are just a few examples of these designs in use.


David Koma taking this idea to the extreme. Structured pieces are enhanced by the adornment.



Underwear designer Marlies Dekkers has used zip edging on this bra for decoration. Her pieces are designed to incorporate underwear with outerwear.



Bodyamr use gold zipping to add an accent colour to this structured panelled little black dress.


Also featured in the Bodyamr collection was this printed dress.


The illusion of having the drape printed instead of the fabric manipulated is something that we were expecting to see a trend for last season but it looks like we were ahead of the game. Perhaps it will show it's face now then? Keep your eyes peeled!

Hannah xx


Friday, 26 February 2010

LFW Day 6 (Menswear): Aitor Throup Presentaion


And then to Russell Square to see Aitor Throup's presentation. This was a retrospective of his work from 2004-2010.

We walked in and were instantly impressed with the layout of the show, it seemed more like we had come into an art gallery than a fashion presentation. There were life-size mesh figures suspended from the ceiling, all in hunched poses. Despite the collection being called 'legs', it took us a minute to realise that the only garments being displayed were trousers. These trousers were pieces from collections that he had produced over the last 6 years.




The show was split into each different collection and concept. The first we looked at was entitled, 'The Funeral of New Orleans'(2007). It represented a marching band in the midst of the destruction of New Orleans. The trousers were displayed on figures in the correct pose for the instrument they played. All were made in the same wool but had been exposed to water for different time periods to allow for shrinkage. Then placed in order accordingly. Instruments had been covered in the same wool and were held high as if to protect them from the rising water levels.



'When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods'(2006) was based on a story created by Throup about death of a British Hindu boy after a racist attack of a group of football hooligans. It looked at the remorseful hooligans who had turned to the Hindu faith to look for redemption. The trousers in this collection were made from Harris tweed, a symbol of British heritage. They were replicas of military garments that evolve into a depiction of a Hindu god.



What was great to see at the presentation, that you wouldn't notice on the catwalk was the attention to detail. Many pieces had no inside seams, as in sportswear, which allowed for a more sculptural shape. Also, topstitching made a feature of seams and contour lines.
Throup's trademark is to include feet in his trousers as he doesn't believe that a garment has to be cut off at the ankle or wrist. We really love this feature of his work as we are both really interested in functional fashion and being able to create your own environment within your clothes.


Definitely the most thought provoking show. Every one of Throup's collections had a interesting, unusual concept, which he had explored fully in his designs.

He is currently working on a ready to wear collection, as until now he has never sold any of his own pieces. We cannot wait.

Lucy & Loz xx

Thursday, 25 February 2010

LFW Day 6 (Menswear): JW Anderson

Straight after Carolyn Massey we were treated to the J W Anderson catwalk show, the mood changed instantly as the models came on to pumping music. Although the collection was entitled 'The Saint and The Assassin' we named it the anarchist in love. As for us, the punk tartans and dog collars mixed with love hearts, roses and picnic blankets conjured up an image of a romantic punk.



Yoke and shoulder panels knitted with a long pile yarn.

Some really interesting knits. Chiffon tee over a chunky cable knit jumper.


A novel way of using a picnic blanket, tartan rugs were turned into jackets and bags.


Fabrics made to look like others. A modern take on a sheepskin coat, cut from cashmere.


Anderson used models that seem to fit perfectly with his concept. One guy had his septum pierced, adding to the punk vibe.


The 'piece de resistance' was the beautiful floral covered rucksack. There were also flowers stuck in the heavy, spiked boots.
Accessories were key in the collection. As well as the boots, models wore leather collars and L.O.V.E. H.A.T.E. rings.
Some of the pieces had the word 'Mizpah' written on them. I've checked out the definition and it means, 'the emotional bond between people who are separated'. Perhaps in reference to the good v evil character you envisage from the collections title, 'The Saint and The Assassin'.



After seeing the show we left feeling wide awake and very positive for the rest of the menswear day.

Lucy & Loz xx

LFW Day 6 (Menswear): Carolyn Massey

Its another early morning start for us with Carolyn Massey showing at 9.30am. Although it is also a gentle awakening, with this soft military look. The colour palette consisted of light greys and beige's with peaches and faint pinks, the silhouette was boxy with some really strong shapes but at the same time the knitted pieces felt relaxed and fluid.

We particularly liked this boxy top (above) with the back slightly longer than the front.


This all in one, baby grow style suit (above) was knitted with a grey shimmery yarn, actually it was knitted in 2 shades of grey yarn so that the bottom half was slightly darker that the top. When we first saw it, it looked as if it was two separate pieces.




A lot of the collection was build up with lots of soft layers. The fingerless gloves were styled on top of the jacket cuffs, giving it a more street edge, like we saw earlier at the b Store presentation. The sleeveless jackets had raw edges around the arm holes.



Apologies about the lack of legs and feet from these photos, we were sitting on the third row back so could not get a decent full body shot. A lot of the trousers were cropped and underneath some of the models were wearing large holed fish nets in a peachy light pink colour with military style boots, and they looked amazing! Subtle but equally daring.

video


Bring on more menswear!

Loz & Lucy xx

Wednesday, 24 February 2010

LFW Day 5: Street Style

The best of the best for day 5


Outside the Burberry show, this guy stood out a mile. His winged trainers were pretty awesome.


This woman was amazing, and despite her fierce look she was really lovely.


Loz & Lucy xx

LFW Day 5: Ashish

The Ashish show opened with lots of people going 'shhhh shhhh' and then some sleepy music came on. and what a perfect start for the first outfit. These amazing sequin pajamas!



I really like this teddy bear sequin pattern.



And with a waist coat covered in buttons, it's even better! I love love love buttons.

The waist band on these trousers is really interesting.

This cable knit jumper is actually made of sequins.
This is actually a cable knit jumper, but it's just as lovely.
As is the tuck pattern on this jumper.
Nadia xx

LFW Day 5: Antoni and Alison


I was really looking forward to the Antoni and Alison presentation at Somerset House, because I am a huge Antoni and Alison fan! I'd already had a sneeky peek at the clothes in their static presentation, and loved them.

The presentation was called 'How Can I Be You?'

The ideas behind it were about making things up and pretending to be someone, but in a very simplistic way. So not pretending to be a spy or that you grew up in the circus, but something very simple like pretending to own 3 cats or that you're good at maths.

This is what a girl who is good at maths looks like.

The press release says "Antoni and Alison were interested in the concept of what makes a natural beauty - they found one and asked her - How can I be you?"

The presentation had two rooms. In the first room were all the clothes divided up by what sort of girl they were for.

The next room had lots of TVs with changing images of the same girl dressed up as different things like a sculptress, dancer and folk singer. In the background an interview with the girl was playing, of her pretending to be all the things. (I'm realising as I type this is quite a difficult concept to explain) Alot of the answers had a touch of humour to them in a typical Antoni and Alison fashion.

My favourite quotes from the interview are:


This girl is a writer.

Q: So you're a writer?
A: Yes... I'm writing a book about Sylvia Plath - I have a cat and like to wear real tweeds.

Q: So you're a linguist?
A: Yes, I can speak 14 languages, which is useful for when I have to translate at the UN, for this I need to look smart and neat and slightly boring.

Q: So you grow your own vegetables?
A: Yes, I'm a macrobiotic vegan - carrot is my favourite colour.


The clothes themselves were also about pretending with jumpers made to look like blazers, and digital prints of heavy chunky knits on silk dresses. It was a mixture of realistic fake and none realistic fake.
A digital print to look like heavy weave fabric and buttons on a silk dress.

Cartoon-y pretend jumpers.

I spoke to Antoni Burakowski at the presentation, he was very giddy for their collection and was talking to everyone about it. He also said the idea of mixing heavy and soft together was very important, making soft things look heavy etc.
I loved this ducky dress, it's so cute. When I saw it on the video I thought it was a knitted dress but it is actually a silk dress with a knitted print on it. It's for a girl who loves animals.

Loz and I loved this jumper for a soft anarchist girl. It says don't drop litter, but there is a G in front of the L on the back of the jumper so it actually reads don't drop glitter.

This is one of my favourite outfits. I love the over the top print. It's for a country girl.
This dress is for a girl who can knit and sew. She collects buttons and sews dolls clothes as well as her own. I really love the faux tapestry print.

Nadia xx